by Nicole Smith, About.com Paris Travel Contributor
Flatten, build, deconstruct, bulldoze, build again and expand: there is, perhaps, no other place in Paris that has seen more sudden and drastic renovation than the former market area known as Les Halles. Napoleon III's desire to showcase Paris as the world's most beautiful city led to architect Victor Baltard's constructon of twelve cast iron market pavilions in 1870. In 1933, a 21 year-old French photographer named Robert Doisneau began using his Leica camera to capture the bustling central marketplace for the next 40 years. His 200 black and white photographs of the area are featured in the free exhibition "Doisneau: Paris Les Halles" currently running at the city hall (Hotel de Ville).
The exhibit is located in the hospitality room, a space which provides the intimacy that was felt during the 1950s and 1960s at Les Halles. Doisneau's genuine street scenes capture various guises of the famed marketplace which nearly never slept. At night, activity at Les Halles was at its peak, with merchandise arriving from all regions of France for traders to begin selling when the market bell rang at 1 a.m. Cafes and restaurants were open 24 hours a day, which not only offered a place for social gatherings, but also served as a venue for conducting transactions and lending a short repose for workers. More than 5,000 people worked at Les Halles: butchers, fishmongers, cheese makers, florists, etc. Every square meter of the quarter was used, thus making Les Halles a truly communal setting.
From smiling laborers at their posts on the street to butchers proudly displaying their meat underground, Doisneau excelled in taking portraits of the everyday life and festivities of the marketplace. He was also able to capture the mass numbers of people and products that cluttered the site through expansive field shots. Perhaps the most amusing sequence shows people from all walks of life who frequented the quarter, each hopping over the same garbage-ridden puddle.
The tone of the exhibit quickly changes, however, after 1969, when the government decided to move Les Halles outside of Paris to Rungis due to poor sanitary conditions. From there, the exhibit explores the rapid change of Les Halles from a busy marketplace to a bulldozed construction site. All of the Baltard pavilions were destroyed or moved in order to make way for an RER commuter train station and The Forum des Halles, a massive shopping center which is currently undergoing yet another massive and costly renovation.
Doisneau's pictures from the 1970's depict anxious spectators overlooking the construction until the opening of the Forum in 1979. The exhibit truly reflects just how quickly Les Halles has modernized and remodernized itself, from a marketplace to a mega-mall. Asked why he chose the middle of the 20th century to concentrate his lens on Les Halles, Doisneau replied, "I knew it was going to disappear. I absolutely wanted to keep [a] memory of it."
Exhibition: Doisneau: Paris Les Halles
When: February 8th through April 28th, 2012
Location: Hotel de Ville (Metro Hotel de Ville)
Related: March Events in Paris
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